Car tyres can fail for a variety of reasons. Some are more common than others but all are avoidable with a little foresight. So, let's look at some problems that can cause tyre failure, and learn how to avoid them.
Underinflation
Running your car tyres at too low a pressure has an immediate penalty. Underinflated tyres have higher rolling resistance than tyres running at the correct pressure. This means you waste fuel on pushing the tyres along the road. A less immediate but more punishing penalty comes from the same lack of pounds per square inch of air pressure inside the car tyre. Put simply, underinflated tyres can overheat. If the tyres overheat enough, it's bye-bye tread or tyre carcass – i.e. it's blowout time.
Inflating your car tyres correctly, to the pressure the car and/or tyre manufacturer recommends, is simple enough, and far less costly than new tyres or a spectacular blowout.
Overinflation
Given the above, it may seem logical to run your car tyres at a pressure higher than the one recommended. Wrong! Tyres running at too high a pressure lose compliance. Meaning? They can't cope well with road irregularities and will be more easily damaged. Such damage can occur deep within the tyre carcass and lead to a dramatic high-speed failure. Once again, the solution is to keep your tyres inflated to the correct pressure.
Excessive Speed
If you've saved a few pounds by buying car tyres that are under specified for your car's capabilities, there's no profit in preening yourself about it. Car tyres have a speed rating, denoted by a letter on the sidewall, for a reason. More highly-rated tyres have superior internal structures and can lose heat more efficiently than lesser items.
While your insurance company will take a very dim view of your running on inappropriate tyres, worse things can happen. Under specified tyres can fail, especially in hot conditions.
A good tyre bay will advise you on which speed rating is right for your car. Take the advice: always buy the right tyres.
Overloading
Car tyres carry a load rating as well as a speed rating and this too is with good reason. While overloading may not often affect passenger cars (except perhaps those used for towing), bigger vehicles can be seen wearing underrated tyres. This goes for 4x4s as well as pick up trucks and small to medium-sized vans.
Once again, a tyre bay is the source of knowledge – if in doubt, have your current tyres checked.
Road Hazards
Which road hazards? Good question, given the road offers plenty of hazards. Those particularly affecting car tyre integrity are pot holes, debris and kerbs. Hit any of these with any severity and you may damage a wheel, as well as a tyre. However, impact damage, even at parking speeds, can wreak unseen havoc within a car tyre.
When checking your car tyre pressures, look out for cuts, lumps and bulges – all can be harbingers of structural disaster in a tyre.
Excessive Wear
In these financially demanding times, it's understandable for drivers to try wringing the maximum life out of their car tyres. That said, taking a car tyre down to, or even past, the tread wear indicators moulded into its treads is false economy, not to mention dangerous.
This is another thing to check when you get down and personal with your car tyres. Remember that well worn tyres can lack structural strength as well as grip.
Article Resource
Merityre.co.uk are one of the leading UK independent suppliers of car tyres. Why not visit their website for an online tyre quote or contact your nearest fitting centre.
Monday, 23 April 2012
Wednesday, 7 March 2012
Flat Lines. How To Change a Car Tyre Safely
A car tyre must be inflated to work properly. Should you suffer a puncture, you can change the wheel concerned. Here's how to do so in safety…
When
When to change a wheel becomes pretty obvious. A heavy pulling at the steering wheel and/or squirmy handling with assorted noises is usually sufficient to let you know a car tyre has deflated.
Where
Where to undertake a tyre change may seem obvious but this isn't necessarily so. The first and most important rule is to never, ever try to change a car tyre by a busy carriageway, be it a on a motorway hard shoulder or at the side of an A-road. Why? Quite simply, it is hugely unsafe.
So, what if you're caught out, on a busy road? Sometimes, it's possible to coax your car to a quieter location. Bear in mind that you'll need to find a level, firm surface to work on. If the car tyre has deflated fully, just pull up and call out the cavalry. The breakdown service will do the rest, after your mobile phone, or a roadside phone, has done its lifesaving bit.
How to prepare
A spot of preparation makes changing a flat car tyre much easier. Pull up in your chosen spot, apply the car's handbrake, put the car into gear (or 'park'), switch on the hazard lights and set up the car's warning triangle. This should be placed 45 metres (147 feet) behind the car.
The next stage in dealing with a flat car tyre is to have any passengers leave the car and stand well away from it, and from passing traffic. Then, it's time to extract the spare wheel, jack and tools – your car's handbook will tell you where they are to be found.
Jacking the Car
This step in the proceedings involves safety procedures, to which you must pay attention. First, you have to chock the wheel diagonally opposite to the one with the flat car tyre. No chock to hand? Then find a stone, brick or any other piece of debris that'll do the job.
Time for your car to go up in the world. There'll be a specific place under which the car jack must be placed. Once again, the handbook will tell you where this is. Do not improvise; only the proper jacking point will do. With the jack placed correctly, wind it up until it's bearing enough of the car's weight to not move.
Loosening the wheel nuts or bolts holding the wheel with the flat tyre comes next. These are always undone anticlockwise, with the wheelbrace that is in the toolkit. You may have to undo a locking wheel nut too – there's a key device for that.
Now, wheel fastenings can be very tight. Use the wheel brace so you'll be applying downward pressure (far less injurious if the tool slips). Loosen the fastenings first; the wheel can't turn because it's still on the ground.
Now, you can jack the car up. Do this steadily, until there is daylight between the flat car tyre and the roadside surface.
Changing the Wheel
Unscrew the fastenings completely one by one, removing the uppermost one last. You may need to 'persuade' the offending wheel to come off but be careful – over enthusiasm could cause the car to fall. For this reason, never let any part of you go between the car and the ground.
A car tyre and wheel combination can be heavy. Make sure that when lifting one, you’re on a firm footing with a straight back. Fit the spare wheel, securing it with the topmost fastening. Then, refit the remaining fastenings, tightening them only enough to seat the wheel firmly on the hub. Lower the car until the tyre is on the ground, and tighten the fastenings in a diagonal pattern. Now, you can stow the deflated wheel and tyre, put your tools away and continue your journey.
Finished?
Not quite, there are a couple of post-wheel change necessities. You need to get to a tyre bay, to have the wheel tightened to a specific torque – a repair on the flat car tyre is often possible. If you need to continue on the spare, you have to be sure that the car tyre on the spare wheel you've used is at the correct pressure. Finally, if the spare tyre is a space saver, there'll be limitations concerning speed and distance. The car handbook will show you what applies.
Article Resource
Merityre.co.uk are one of the leading UK independent suppliers of car tyres. Why not visit their website for an online tyre quote or contact your nearest fitting centre.
When
When to change a wheel becomes pretty obvious. A heavy pulling at the steering wheel and/or squirmy handling with assorted noises is usually sufficient to let you know a car tyre has deflated.
Where
Where to undertake a tyre change may seem obvious but this isn't necessarily so. The first and most important rule is to never, ever try to change a car tyre by a busy carriageway, be it a on a motorway hard shoulder or at the side of an A-road. Why? Quite simply, it is hugely unsafe.
So, what if you're caught out, on a busy road? Sometimes, it's possible to coax your car to a quieter location. Bear in mind that you'll need to find a level, firm surface to work on. If the car tyre has deflated fully, just pull up and call out the cavalry. The breakdown service will do the rest, after your mobile phone, or a roadside phone, has done its lifesaving bit.
How to prepare
A spot of preparation makes changing a flat car tyre much easier. Pull up in your chosen spot, apply the car's handbrake, put the car into gear (or 'park'), switch on the hazard lights and set up the car's warning triangle. This should be placed 45 metres (147 feet) behind the car.
The next stage in dealing with a flat car tyre is to have any passengers leave the car and stand well away from it, and from passing traffic. Then, it's time to extract the spare wheel, jack and tools – your car's handbook will tell you where they are to be found.
Jacking the Car
This step in the proceedings involves safety procedures, to which you must pay attention. First, you have to chock the wheel diagonally opposite to the one with the flat car tyre. No chock to hand? Then find a stone, brick or any other piece of debris that'll do the job.
Time for your car to go up in the world. There'll be a specific place under which the car jack must be placed. Once again, the handbook will tell you where this is. Do not improvise; only the proper jacking point will do. With the jack placed correctly, wind it up until it's bearing enough of the car's weight to not move.
Loosening the wheel nuts or bolts holding the wheel with the flat tyre comes next. These are always undone anticlockwise, with the wheelbrace that is in the toolkit. You may have to undo a locking wheel nut too – there's a key device for that.
Now, wheel fastenings can be very tight. Use the wheel brace so you'll be applying downward pressure (far less injurious if the tool slips). Loosen the fastenings first; the wheel can't turn because it's still on the ground.
Now, you can jack the car up. Do this steadily, until there is daylight between the flat car tyre and the roadside surface.
Changing the Wheel
Unscrew the fastenings completely one by one, removing the uppermost one last. You may need to 'persuade' the offending wheel to come off but be careful – over enthusiasm could cause the car to fall. For this reason, never let any part of you go between the car and the ground.
A car tyre and wheel combination can be heavy. Make sure that when lifting one, you’re on a firm footing with a straight back. Fit the spare wheel, securing it with the topmost fastening. Then, refit the remaining fastenings, tightening them only enough to seat the wheel firmly on the hub. Lower the car until the tyre is on the ground, and tighten the fastenings in a diagonal pattern. Now, you can stow the deflated wheel and tyre, put your tools away and continue your journey.
Finished?
Not quite, there are a couple of post-wheel change necessities. You need to get to a tyre bay, to have the wheel tightened to a specific torque – a repair on the flat car tyre is often possible. If you need to continue on the spare, you have to be sure that the car tyre on the spare wheel you've used is at the correct pressure. Finally, if the spare tyre is a space saver, there'll be limitations concerning speed and distance. The car handbook will show you what applies.
Article Resource
Merityre.co.uk are one of the leading UK independent suppliers of car tyres. Why not visit their website for an online tyre quote or contact your nearest fitting centre.
Under Control. How Computers Help Car Tyres
'If in doubt, blame the computer' is an office standby. When it comes to car tyres, there are plenty of instances when it would be appropriate to say, 'Thank the computer'. Several computer-controlled systems optimize car tyre performance these days. Let's pick our way through the acronyms and look at some such systems.
ABS a.k.a. the Anti-Lock Braking System has its roots in aircraft technology. Gabriel Voisin, a French aeronautical and automotive engineer came up with it as far back as 1929. Forty-two years later, 'Sure Brake' appeared on the 1971 Chrysler Imperial. It's now hard to find a single car tyre whose stopping power isn't maximised by ABS. Here's how it works.
Enter the ECU, or Electronic Control Unit, which is what is in charge of ABS. Imagine a car tyre is rotating more slowly than its fellows. A wheel speed sensor detects this, and tells the ECU. The ECU, in turn, opens a hydraulic valve to divert brake fluid pressure away from the locking wheel, until the tyre in question speeds up again. The system can do this at up to 20 times per second. The result? On a wheel that isn't quite locking, the car tyre is gripping at maximum efficiency. A locked wheel offers virtually no grip, while a wheel nearly at locking point can still offer steering and braking force.
EBD (or EBFD) is a refinement of ABS. This acronym stands for Electronic Brake Force Distribution. On the old, 'classic' Mini, for example, there used to be a mechanical inertia valve, which would reduce braking force to stop the rear tyres locking under heavy braking. EBD does the same thing, far faster, far more accurately and in relation to each car tyre simultaneously.
Strange as it may sound, ABS can help a car tyre achieve maximum traction under acceleration. TCS – the Traction Control System – uses the ABS's wheel speed sensors to detect if a car tyre on a driven wheel is spinning (i.e. not gripping). The TCS applies braking force to the spinning wheel for a few milliseconds. In more sophisticated TCS systems, the throttle can be cut briefly, preventing wheel spin.
Speaking of sophisticated systems, we can now look at ESC (Electronic Stability Control). This again is ABS-related. In ESC (or DSC – Dynamic Stability Control), two further sensors play a role. One detects the angle of the steering wheel, while its gyroscopic stablemate checks this angle against the car's direction of travel. Should the figures not add up, the system applies braking force to individual wheels. Once again, each car tyre is maintained at its optimum level of efficiency in any given circumstance, by the application of very short pulses of braking pressure, and/or throttle input, as appropriate.
Here's where further refinement steps in, and where we become awash with acronyms. It's probably best to think of the refinements under the ACC (Adaptive Chassis Control) banner. Often using a button, with markings such as 'Comfort', 'Sport' and even 'Race', a car driver can dial in all manner of changes to how his car responds. While the stiffness of physical springs can't be changed electronically, the firmness of the suspension can, by the actuation of electronic tweaks to suspension damper rates. While the car tyres don't change, that which controls them can. It's possible for driving force to be distributed according to car tyre grip across an axle and, in some cases, between the front and rear wheels.
The bottom line about these immensely clever, capable systems is that they use car tyre grip as a benchmark. When the car tyres are offering optimum grip, tyre performance – and therefore the performance of the car – is necessarily optimized.
Article Resource
Merityre.co.uk are one of the leading UK independent suppliers of car tyres. Why not visit their website for an online tyre quote or contact your nearest fitting centre.
ABS a.k.a. the Anti-Lock Braking System has its roots in aircraft technology. Gabriel Voisin, a French aeronautical and automotive engineer came up with it as far back as 1929. Forty-two years later, 'Sure Brake' appeared on the 1971 Chrysler Imperial. It's now hard to find a single car tyre whose stopping power isn't maximised by ABS. Here's how it works.
Enter the ECU, or Electronic Control Unit, which is what is in charge of ABS. Imagine a car tyre is rotating more slowly than its fellows. A wheel speed sensor detects this, and tells the ECU. The ECU, in turn, opens a hydraulic valve to divert brake fluid pressure away from the locking wheel, until the tyre in question speeds up again. The system can do this at up to 20 times per second. The result? On a wheel that isn't quite locking, the car tyre is gripping at maximum efficiency. A locked wheel offers virtually no grip, while a wheel nearly at locking point can still offer steering and braking force.
EBD (or EBFD) is a refinement of ABS. This acronym stands for Electronic Brake Force Distribution. On the old, 'classic' Mini, for example, there used to be a mechanical inertia valve, which would reduce braking force to stop the rear tyres locking under heavy braking. EBD does the same thing, far faster, far more accurately and in relation to each car tyre simultaneously.
Strange as it may sound, ABS can help a car tyre achieve maximum traction under acceleration. TCS – the Traction Control System – uses the ABS's wheel speed sensors to detect if a car tyre on a driven wheel is spinning (i.e. not gripping). The TCS applies braking force to the spinning wheel for a few milliseconds. In more sophisticated TCS systems, the throttle can be cut briefly, preventing wheel spin.
Speaking of sophisticated systems, we can now look at ESC (Electronic Stability Control). This again is ABS-related. In ESC (or DSC – Dynamic Stability Control), two further sensors play a role. One detects the angle of the steering wheel, while its gyroscopic stablemate checks this angle against the car's direction of travel. Should the figures not add up, the system applies braking force to individual wheels. Once again, each car tyre is maintained at its optimum level of efficiency in any given circumstance, by the application of very short pulses of braking pressure, and/or throttle input, as appropriate.
Here's where further refinement steps in, and where we become awash with acronyms. It's probably best to think of the refinements under the ACC (Adaptive Chassis Control) banner. Often using a button, with markings such as 'Comfort', 'Sport' and even 'Race', a car driver can dial in all manner of changes to how his car responds. While the stiffness of physical springs can't be changed electronically, the firmness of the suspension can, by the actuation of electronic tweaks to suspension damper rates. While the car tyres don't change, that which controls them can. It's possible for driving force to be distributed according to car tyre grip across an axle and, in some cases, between the front and rear wheels.
The bottom line about these immensely clever, capable systems is that they use car tyre grip as a benchmark. When the car tyres are offering optimum grip, tyre performance – and therefore the performance of the car – is necessarily optimized.
Article Resource
Merityre.co.uk are one of the leading UK independent suppliers of car tyres. Why not visit their website for an online tyre quote or contact your nearest fitting centre.
Thursday, 9 February 2012
Tell Tale Tyres. What Wear Patterns Mean
Car tyre forensics seems like an odd concept. However, in many instances, a 'dead' tyre can give you as much information as a corpse in the hands of a police pathologist. Information? Yes, tell-tale signs that can tell you what caused the tyre's untimely demise. Such information is useful because in indicating possible faults, it can tell you what might require fixing to give your replacement car tyres or tyre the maximum possible life.
Let's start with the basics. The type of tyre wear pattern that's to be expected is straightforward, and is characterised by the tread's having been worn away to the extent that the tyres’ tread wear indicators are at or near level with the surface of the tread. So, the tyre has nearly finished its useful service life. Is this the end of the story? Not necessarily. The suspension geometry on some cars can mean that the tyres' treads don't necessarily wear completely evenly.
Other car tyre tread wear patterns tell a different tale. What must be borne in mind is that they don't necessarily tell it quickly – some wear conditions take a while to show that something is awry. For example, what does feathering on both outer edges of the tyre tread suggest? This pattern is the most likely indicator that the tyre has been consistently run at too low a pressure. Conversely, a strip worn around the centre of the tread indicates a tyre having been run at too high a pressure.
What about feathering on one edge of the car tyre tread? Should such wear be on the outer edge of the tyre, it suggests that the car's steering is misaligned, having too much toe-in. Similarly, feathering on the tread's inner edge indicates that there is too much toe-out. This kind of wear usually appears on both front tyres, as the steering will generally attempt to run straight and true. The fact that the steering tries to compensate for misalignment by effectively evening out the wear on each side of the car is no compensation in itself. However, it does advise you to have the wheel alignment checked before your new tyres suffer.
It's worth noting that feathering on one side of a car tyre tread occurring only on one side of the car indicates something other than misaligned wheels. In this instance, one-sided feathering is more suggestive of wear in the car's suspension joints, its springs and/or its wheel bearings. This pattern can also occur when the wheel's camber, its position in relation to the vertical plane, is incorrect. Camber change of this kind can be caused by wear in the aforementioned areas; damage to the suspension can cause the same problem.
'Cupping' is also a phenomenon that can show you something is amiss on your car. A tread with cupping (also called 'dipping' or 'scalloping') has patches of wear across its tread's surface. This can look almost like the tread surface has softened in places, or has been scooped away. Cupping indicates one of two problems or a combination of them. Wheels significantly out of balance can suffer cupping, as can car tyres under the control of worn shock absorbers. Cupping can affect rear tyres but it's more commonly seen on a car's front tyres.
As you can see, car tyre tread wear can be the result of maladjustment but wear and damage can give similar results. In the interests of your wallet, if not your life, pay attention to what your car tyres are telling you.
Article Resource
Merityre.co.uk are one of the leading UK independent suppliers of car tyres. Why not visit their website for an online tyre quote or contact your nearest fitting centre.
Let's start with the basics. The type of tyre wear pattern that's to be expected is straightforward, and is characterised by the tread's having been worn away to the extent that the tyres’ tread wear indicators are at or near level with the surface of the tread. So, the tyre has nearly finished its useful service life. Is this the end of the story? Not necessarily. The suspension geometry on some cars can mean that the tyres' treads don't necessarily wear completely evenly.
Other car tyre tread wear patterns tell a different tale. What must be borne in mind is that they don't necessarily tell it quickly – some wear conditions take a while to show that something is awry. For example, what does feathering on both outer edges of the tyre tread suggest? This pattern is the most likely indicator that the tyre has been consistently run at too low a pressure. Conversely, a strip worn around the centre of the tread indicates a tyre having been run at too high a pressure.
What about feathering on one edge of the car tyre tread? Should such wear be on the outer edge of the tyre, it suggests that the car's steering is misaligned, having too much toe-in. Similarly, feathering on the tread's inner edge indicates that there is too much toe-out. This kind of wear usually appears on both front tyres, as the steering will generally attempt to run straight and true. The fact that the steering tries to compensate for misalignment by effectively evening out the wear on each side of the car is no compensation in itself. However, it does advise you to have the wheel alignment checked before your new tyres suffer.
It's worth noting that feathering on one side of a car tyre tread occurring only on one side of the car indicates something other than misaligned wheels. In this instance, one-sided feathering is more suggestive of wear in the car's suspension joints, its springs and/or its wheel bearings. This pattern can also occur when the wheel's camber, its position in relation to the vertical plane, is incorrect. Camber change of this kind can be caused by wear in the aforementioned areas; damage to the suspension can cause the same problem.
'Cupping' is also a phenomenon that can show you something is amiss on your car. A tread with cupping (also called 'dipping' or 'scalloping') has patches of wear across its tread's surface. This can look almost like the tread surface has softened in places, or has been scooped away. Cupping indicates one of two problems or a combination of them. Wheels significantly out of balance can suffer cupping, as can car tyres under the control of worn shock absorbers. Cupping can affect rear tyres but it's more commonly seen on a car's front tyres.
As you can see, car tyre tread wear can be the result of maladjustment but wear and damage can give similar results. In the interests of your wallet, if not your life, pay attention to what your car tyres are telling you.
Article Resource
Merityre.co.uk are one of the leading UK independent suppliers of car tyres. Why not visit their website for an online tyre quote or contact your nearest fitting centre.
Star Cars. More Objects of Desire On Tyres
We may not view them for very long but movie star cars live on in our memories. Not all movies featuring memorable motors are car chases wrapped in sub-plots. That said, car tyres aren't just for these four-wheeled screen idols to sit on. Yes, rubber was burnt in many instances. The tyre-smoking heroes here have one thing in common – they're all from the 'States. So let's take a look across the pond at some US-born petrol-driven thespians.
The 1971 film 'Vanishing Point' is a classic car chase wrapped in celluloid. Starring Barry Newman and Cleavon Little (who went on to great things in 'Blazing Saddles'), Vanishing Point revolves around a fifteen-hour, transcontinental drive from Denver to San Francisco. The star car tyres doing the revolving in the film were fitted to a 1970 Dodge Challenger R/T, the suffix letters referring to 'road and track'. This 6.2-litre monster, driven by Erich Heuschele, developed the power of 375 gutsy, all-American horses. The car's F70x14 car tyres put the power onto the tarmac, with the aid of the Challenger's R/T package. Interestingly, the same model in the same colour popped up in Quentin Tarantino's 2007 movie 'Death Proof'. What's more, the Challenger's pedigree goes back in time. The black car driven by the baddies in 'Bullitt' was a 1968 Dodge Challenger 440 R/T.
More tyre-smoking Detroit iron finished in black starred in 1977's 'Smokey and the Bandit'. The motorised matinee idol here wasn't Burt Reynolds, it was a 1977 Pontiac Trans Am. This car's history can be traced – it stemmed from a General Motors Design show car created for GM design supremo Bill Mitchell. On this Trans Am, the car tyres were put under pressure in more than the literal sense. The car's 7.5 litre V8 motor became the last of the muscle car engines. Increasingly stringent emissions regulations in the US finally killed off these big V8 beasts in 1980. The stunt team on 'Smokey' pre-empted this, killing off, or at least damaging, all five film cars.
Now for something more unusual, though still in black paint. The next movie star was built using three Model T Ford bodies and a 133-inch hand made chassis. The Munsters Koach was created in 21 days in 1964, at a cost of $18,000; it took 500 hours to make its ornate steel scrollwork alone. Another big V8, by Ford this time, sent the power to the tyres via a four-speed manual gearbox, and the brass radiator and wings were hand formed. The Koach had ten Stromberg carburettors. On an eight cylinder engine? Not really. The visible carburettors were dummies, concealing two functioning four-barrel carbs.
In the Munsters, Grandpa, played by Al Lewis, became more than a little jealous of the Koach. So he acquired 'Drag-U-La'. This vehicle was notable for its spindly front tyres, mounted on Speedsport English buggy wire wheels. The V8 engine's 350 horsepower was transmitted to 11 inch-wide Firestone racing slick car tyres, mounted on specially made ten-inch deep Reynolds aluminum Rader drag wheels. Still more characteristic for a 'vampire', Drag-U-La's body shell was a coffin. The original Drag-U-La, one of four built, hangs from the ceiling in Planet Hollywood, Atlantic City, New Jersey.
Who was the talented creator of these last two oddities? The man responsible for putting a lot of tremendously memorable tinseltown tin on tyres. Yes, it was none other than Batmobile creator George Barris
Article Resource
Merityre.co.uk are one of the leading UK independent suppliers of car tyres. Why not visit their website for an online tyre quote or contact your nearest fitting centre.
The 1971 film 'Vanishing Point' is a classic car chase wrapped in celluloid. Starring Barry Newman and Cleavon Little (who went on to great things in 'Blazing Saddles'), Vanishing Point revolves around a fifteen-hour, transcontinental drive from Denver to San Francisco. The star car tyres doing the revolving in the film were fitted to a 1970 Dodge Challenger R/T, the suffix letters referring to 'road and track'. This 6.2-litre monster, driven by Erich Heuschele, developed the power of 375 gutsy, all-American horses. The car's F70x14 car tyres put the power onto the tarmac, with the aid of the Challenger's R/T package. Interestingly, the same model in the same colour popped up in Quentin Tarantino's 2007 movie 'Death Proof'. What's more, the Challenger's pedigree goes back in time. The black car driven by the baddies in 'Bullitt' was a 1968 Dodge Challenger 440 R/T.
More tyre-smoking Detroit iron finished in black starred in 1977's 'Smokey and the Bandit'. The motorised matinee idol here wasn't Burt Reynolds, it was a 1977 Pontiac Trans Am. This car's history can be traced – it stemmed from a General Motors Design show car created for GM design supremo Bill Mitchell. On this Trans Am, the car tyres were put under pressure in more than the literal sense. The car's 7.5 litre V8 motor became the last of the muscle car engines. Increasingly stringent emissions regulations in the US finally killed off these big V8 beasts in 1980. The stunt team on 'Smokey' pre-empted this, killing off, or at least damaging, all five film cars.
Now for something more unusual, though still in black paint. The next movie star was built using three Model T Ford bodies and a 133-inch hand made chassis. The Munsters Koach was created in 21 days in 1964, at a cost of $18,000; it took 500 hours to make its ornate steel scrollwork alone. Another big V8, by Ford this time, sent the power to the tyres via a four-speed manual gearbox, and the brass radiator and wings were hand formed. The Koach had ten Stromberg carburettors. On an eight cylinder engine? Not really. The visible carburettors were dummies, concealing two functioning four-barrel carbs.
In the Munsters, Grandpa, played by Al Lewis, became more than a little jealous of the Koach. So he acquired 'Drag-U-La'. This vehicle was notable for its spindly front tyres, mounted on Speedsport English buggy wire wheels. The V8 engine's 350 horsepower was transmitted to 11 inch-wide Firestone racing slick car tyres, mounted on specially made ten-inch deep Reynolds aluminum Rader drag wheels. Still more characteristic for a 'vampire', Drag-U-La's body shell was a coffin. The original Drag-U-La, one of four built, hangs from the ceiling in Planet Hollywood, Atlantic City, New Jersey.
Who was the talented creator of these last two oddities? The man responsible for putting a lot of tremendously memorable tinseltown tin on tyres. Yes, it was none other than Batmobile creator George Barris
Article Resource
Merityre.co.uk are one of the leading UK independent suppliers of car tyres. Why not visit their website for an online tyre quote or contact your nearest fitting centre.
Tuesday, 17 January 2012
Top Ten Car Tyre Tips
Car tyres don't generally ask too much of you. However, neglecting them can prove expensive and, in some circumstances, dangerous. These ten tips will enhance car tyre life, reduce your spending and perhaps save your life.
1. The wrong car tyre pressure is costly. Running on overinflated tyres accelerates wear and reduces both grip and ride comfort. Underinflated tyres also wear more quickly, and can worsen fuel economy by as much as ten percent. Check your tyre pressures regularly.
2. Cuts in car tyres are obvious. Lumps or bulges may be less so but they tend to indicate damage inside the car tyre's carcass. Check for any such damage while correcting tyre pressures. If in any doubt, avoid the risk of a blowout by having a tyre specialist examine the damage.
3. A spare wheel with a flat tyre is worse than useless. Check the spare tyre pressure regularly, unless you have run flat tyres or an onboard tyre pump and repair kit. Remember that space saver spare tyres generally have speed and distance restrictions.
4. If, at car tyre checking time, you find a stone embedded in a tyre tread, you can lever it out before it causes damage. However, if you find a nail in a tyre, leave it alone. The nail will be temporarily keeping the air in – have a tyre specialist take a look. He may be able to repair the tyre.
5. While using the tyre inflator at a garage, or a tyre pump at home, look after the tyre valve dust caps. They keep dirt and grit away from the delicate valves, and are a line of defence against tyre pressure loss. Always put them back carefully.
6. Potholes can damage more than your car tyres. Hit a large one hard enough and you could be facing a bill for the repair or replacement of one or more wheels. Should you be unlucky enough to encounter a big pothole and suspect damage has occurred, stop and examine the affected wheel(s) and tyre(s).
7. Never straddle a speed bump. Instead, let the wheels on one side of your car pass over the bump. This will prevent damage to your car's tyres, steering and suspension. When negotiating speed bumps and road-width speed pads, slow down or face the cost of repairs.
8. When you're manoeuvering, curb your enthusiasm so you don't kerb your car tyres. Kerb impacts can wreck not only tyres, they can scratch, chip and even dent your car's wheels. Steering misalignment can also result from kerbing.
9. Keep your car in a garage, if you can. Car tyres suffer from prolonged exposure to ultra violet light. This leads to cracking and crazing of the car tyre sidewalls' structure.
10. When the time to buy replacement tyres rolls around, think about replacing all four. Should this be too costly, always have new tyres fitted in pairs. It's accepted that the new tyres should be fitted to the rear wheels.
Article Resource
Merityre.co.uk are one of the leading UK independent suppliers of car tyres. Why not visit their website for an online tyre quote or contact your nearest fitting centre.
1. The wrong car tyre pressure is costly. Running on overinflated tyres accelerates wear and reduces both grip and ride comfort. Underinflated tyres also wear more quickly, and can worsen fuel economy by as much as ten percent. Check your tyre pressures regularly.
2. Cuts in car tyres are obvious. Lumps or bulges may be less so but they tend to indicate damage inside the car tyre's carcass. Check for any such damage while correcting tyre pressures. If in any doubt, avoid the risk of a blowout by having a tyre specialist examine the damage.
3. A spare wheel with a flat tyre is worse than useless. Check the spare tyre pressure regularly, unless you have run flat tyres or an onboard tyre pump and repair kit. Remember that space saver spare tyres generally have speed and distance restrictions.
4. If, at car tyre checking time, you find a stone embedded in a tyre tread, you can lever it out before it causes damage. However, if you find a nail in a tyre, leave it alone. The nail will be temporarily keeping the air in – have a tyre specialist take a look. He may be able to repair the tyre.
5. While using the tyre inflator at a garage, or a tyre pump at home, look after the tyre valve dust caps. They keep dirt and grit away from the delicate valves, and are a line of defence against tyre pressure loss. Always put them back carefully.
6. Potholes can damage more than your car tyres. Hit a large one hard enough and you could be facing a bill for the repair or replacement of one or more wheels. Should you be unlucky enough to encounter a big pothole and suspect damage has occurred, stop and examine the affected wheel(s) and tyre(s).
7. Never straddle a speed bump. Instead, let the wheels on one side of your car pass over the bump. This will prevent damage to your car's tyres, steering and suspension. When negotiating speed bumps and road-width speed pads, slow down or face the cost of repairs.
8. When you're manoeuvering, curb your enthusiasm so you don't kerb your car tyres. Kerb impacts can wreck not only tyres, they can scratch, chip and even dent your car's wheels. Steering misalignment can also result from kerbing.
9. Keep your car in a garage, if you can. Car tyres suffer from prolonged exposure to ultra violet light. This leads to cracking and crazing of the car tyre sidewalls' structure.
10. When the time to buy replacement tyres rolls around, think about replacing all four. Should this be too costly, always have new tyres fitted in pairs. It's accepted that the new tyres should be fitted to the rear wheels.
Article Resource
Merityre.co.uk are one of the leading UK independent suppliers of car tyres. Why not visit their website for an online tyre quote or contact your nearest fitting centre.
Winter Wisdom. Meeting Bad Weather Car Tyre Challenges
The usual seasonal symptoms are back again. In the UK, winter presents a series of tough tests for car tyres. As well as your tyres, it is you who are on test – drivers, rather than cars, generally cause accidents. Here are some salient points about winter driving…
Snow and Ice
A mountain climber's crampons, the tracks on a Caterpillar tractor, the toothed drive belt on a snowmobile…certain things are made to grip on snow and ice. Since (with some exceptions) you can't fit such things on your car, you have to cope, using the tyres your car usually wears. There is, however an option. When the temperature drops, your usual tyres will lose flexibility. Winter car tyres are designed to retain their flexibility at lower temperatures, so it makes sense to invest in a set. Motorists are discovering that such car tyres really do offer significantly enhanced grip and control, and using them on a set of (preferably steel) 'winter wheels' will preserve your usual alloy wheels from the ravages of salt and grit.
What are the exceptions? Countries with permafrost can be home to car tyres with studs. In the UK, seriously bad conditions can trigger the use of snow chains. A new item occupies the middle ground. Snow socks are car tyre covers made of a tough, woven material. Easier to fit and quieter than chains, they can be useful when drivers are caught out by unexpected snowfalls. Bear in mind that they will wear out in no time on tarmac.
Rain
When it isn't quite cold enough to snow, rain and sleet present car tyre challenges of their own. Reduced visibility is a foregone conclusion but don't forget that wet weather compromises grip. Your car tyres will move surface water but a wet surface remains relatively slippery. Remember to leave more room between you and the vehicle in front, to allow for increased braking distances.
Flooding
Lots of rain can lead to flooding. Standing water can be dangerous. When your car tyres hit it, you'll feel the steering wheel pulling in response. At worst, your tyres may aquaplane. When the tyres ride on the surface of the water, suspiciously light steering signals radically reduced grip. If you feel this, lift off the throttle and slow down until the grip returns.
If you encounter a flood, remember that negotiating it requires care. Keep to the crown of the road, where the water will be shallower, and look out for the white line. This will help you gauge the depth of the water. While you can trust your tyres, remember that your engine, if it sucks in water, will be wrecked. Keep the engine revs up to help stop the exhaust inhaling water. However, if you are in any doubt whatsoever about the depth of the water, use another route.
Fog
In thick fog, you're bound to suffer loss of visibility. Your car tyres won't suddenly offer greater grip just because you notice that you're hurtling towards the back of stationary truck. So drive as fast as you can see, and no faster. Remember to use your windscreen wipers and washers often in fog; your screen can collect water and grime surprisingly quickly, further reducing visibility.
In winter, the watchword is caution. Even on winter car tyres, grip will be compromised to some extent by bad weather. Should the visibility and grip be truly awful, simply put your feet up by the fire and live to drive another day.
Article Resource
Merityre.co.uk are one of the leading UK independent suppliers of car tyres. Why not visit their website for an online tyre quote or contact your nearest fitting centre.
Snow and Ice
A mountain climber's crampons, the tracks on a Caterpillar tractor, the toothed drive belt on a snowmobile…certain things are made to grip on snow and ice. Since (with some exceptions) you can't fit such things on your car, you have to cope, using the tyres your car usually wears. There is, however an option. When the temperature drops, your usual tyres will lose flexibility. Winter car tyres are designed to retain their flexibility at lower temperatures, so it makes sense to invest in a set. Motorists are discovering that such car tyres really do offer significantly enhanced grip and control, and using them on a set of (preferably steel) 'winter wheels' will preserve your usual alloy wheels from the ravages of salt and grit.
What are the exceptions? Countries with permafrost can be home to car tyres with studs. In the UK, seriously bad conditions can trigger the use of snow chains. A new item occupies the middle ground. Snow socks are car tyre covers made of a tough, woven material. Easier to fit and quieter than chains, they can be useful when drivers are caught out by unexpected snowfalls. Bear in mind that they will wear out in no time on tarmac.
Rain
When it isn't quite cold enough to snow, rain and sleet present car tyre challenges of their own. Reduced visibility is a foregone conclusion but don't forget that wet weather compromises grip. Your car tyres will move surface water but a wet surface remains relatively slippery. Remember to leave more room between you and the vehicle in front, to allow for increased braking distances.
Flooding
Lots of rain can lead to flooding. Standing water can be dangerous. When your car tyres hit it, you'll feel the steering wheel pulling in response. At worst, your tyres may aquaplane. When the tyres ride on the surface of the water, suspiciously light steering signals radically reduced grip. If you feel this, lift off the throttle and slow down until the grip returns.
If you encounter a flood, remember that negotiating it requires care. Keep to the crown of the road, where the water will be shallower, and look out for the white line. This will help you gauge the depth of the water. While you can trust your tyres, remember that your engine, if it sucks in water, will be wrecked. Keep the engine revs up to help stop the exhaust inhaling water. However, if you are in any doubt whatsoever about the depth of the water, use another route.
Fog
In thick fog, you're bound to suffer loss of visibility. Your car tyres won't suddenly offer greater grip just because you notice that you're hurtling towards the back of stationary truck. So drive as fast as you can see, and no faster. Remember to use your windscreen wipers and washers often in fog; your screen can collect water and grime surprisingly quickly, further reducing visibility.
In winter, the watchword is caution. Even on winter car tyres, grip will be compromised to some extent by bad weather. Should the visibility and grip be truly awful, simply put your feet up by the fire and live to drive another day.
Article Resource
Merityre.co.uk are one of the leading UK independent suppliers of car tyres. Why not visit their website for an online tyre quote or contact your nearest fitting centre.
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