There’s nothing in the rule book that says you must keep the wheels your car had on when it arrived. Many people change their wheels, for a variety of reasons. Some want a different style of wheels, some want wider wheels and most want alloy wheels. A change of wheels usually means a change of car tyres. That is no problem in itself but there is a trap into which a lot of people have fallen with a resounding clatter.
The thing is, any car wheel will accept one or more different sizes of car tyre. There is, however, more to car wheels than just rim diameter and width. Ignore the other measurements or get them wrong and disaster looms. In short, you can find there’s a clash between your car tyres and its bodywork. This can happen with steering or suspension movement and often, it happens just the once, immedately before the tyre and bodywork wreck one another.
The first measurment is Pitch Circle Diameter, or PCD for short. This is nothing to do with car tyre to bodywork clearance but if you get this wrong, the wheels won’t fit. The PCD is the diameter of a circle drawn through the centre of your wheel mountings, be they studs or bolts. The wheels obviously need the right number of stud or bolt holes but you also need to ensure that the wheel nuts or bolts have the right thread and profile for your car’s hubs, and that they are correct for use with the wheels you’re using.
Now for the easy ones: rim width and diameter. You could go for the standard measurements here. However, many people want bigger wheels and low profile tyres. Fair enough – just ask the wheel supplier, who you can always blame if something doesn’t fit. It’s also important to make sure that the wheels can accommodate your brakes. Big wheels and low profile tyres were invented, in part at least, to allow for bigger brakes to be crammed in. These days, clearances are close and it’s problematic if your wheels and disc calipers rub each other. This makes only one difference to the car tyres: they won’t work too well if the wheels can’t rotate.
So, we come to the tricky one, the knotty problem of wheel offset. This is most easily understood with a little bit of theory. Imagine a car wheel sawn in half across its diameter. If you were to draw a line through the centre of the wheel rim, and this line was to coincide with the wheel’s hub mounting face, the wheel offset would be zero. If, as is common, the hub face lies outboard of the centre line, the wheel has positive offset. Conversely, if the hub face lies inboard of the centreline, the offset is negative. The degree of offset, apart from altering wheel clearance, has a profound effect on the behaviour of your car tyres.
Visually, positive offset places the car tyre further under the car’s wheelarch. Negative offset makes the tyre carcass sit further outboard. In either case, provided you don’t choose a seriously large figure in relation to what is standard, the car tyres won’t cause difficuties. That said, there is a danger in choosing too radical an offset, as this figure (usually expressed in millimetres) affects steering. You could find that your steering has becomes mysteriously heavy. Worse still, you could find it’s become over-light, to the extent that straight line driving becomes a thing of the past.
Merityre are a leading UK independent supplier of car tyres. Why not visit their website at www.merityre.co.uk and see where you can buy your next set of tyres.
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